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Speakeasy: Green Russell – Denver, Colorado

The Green Russell.  I linked the name to the restaurant’s website – but WAIT!  Dont bother. You won’t be able to see a menu or much else; just a link to reservations via Opentable.  The menu does not exist online.  How mysterious…or not.

We’ve been trying to “get in” to this place for a couple months now.  Never mind that we live in Denver and the whole concept of “getting in” in this town is ridiculous.   Not long ago, faux speakeasys started popping up as the cool “new thing”.    In case you didn’t know, speakeasy, as defined by wikipedia is: an establishment that illegally sells alcoholic beverages. Such establishments came into prominence in the United States during the period known as Prohibition (1920–1933, longer in some states). During this time, the sale, manufacture, and transportation (bootlegging) of alcoholic beverages was illegal throughout the United States.

Green Russell’s rules/mottos (as also printed in the menu that eludes you):

My review of Green Russell is set forth in a “the hype” vs. “the reality” below:

The Hype:

- a secret entrance via a pie shop

- great food

- interesting drinks

- exclusivity

- a speakeasy environment (dress of staff, secrecy, etc)

The Reality

- Prohibition is over, folks.  No need for the secrecy.  You can own a bar.
Hiding your bar (or in this case, pretending to hide your bar, isn’t really that cool)

- We had multiple servers which was weird.

- The servers were dressed in period clothes – kinda cool

- the bar was unique in decor – that was nice and different

-  the caramel apple pie was cold – what!?!?  This was not a circumstance where a pie should be served cold.

- In order to keep the volume down (secret speakeasy and all), the bartenders crushed ice, in an insulated bag, against the wall, with a mallet.  Okaaay.

- The location was not secret; not even close.  Anytime, you display a blinking light with a giant arrow pointing at a door, you’ve lost your “secrecy”

- the menu only contained apps.  They were okay, but we were hoping to have dinner options (especially because they tout themselves – via their website – as a restaurant). I would say it is more of a bar with bar food.  We had crab cakes, bread and cheese, and duck sliders.

- it was ridiculously expensive for what it was.  Anytime you have apps and couple of cocktails, your bill should not be over $100 (again, this is Denver).

- the tables were on top of each other, at least where we were sitting.

- the cocktails were good. They were also unique.  Essentially, you could choose between standard wine and beer.  Then, specialty cocktails were offered - unique creations as well as an extensive scotch list.  I had a “good and good for you” martini. It contained ginger beer, honey, mint, and auchentoshan three wood scotch.  Not too shabby.

- bottom line? Save your money.  I’d like to try Williams & Graham – the “other” speakeasy.  Maybe I’ll change my tune on this new concept.

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